Sorehand- Mice/Pointing Devices

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Date:    Thu, 30 Nov 2000 18:38:31 -0000

Subject: The best solution for mouse related problems

I tried all different types of mice to alleviate my tendinitis of forearm.
None of the mice helped me. Finally, I started using mousetool, an auto
click software. This reduced my pain considerably. I was earliar able to
work for anly 1 to 2 hrs a day. Now I can work for 6 to 7 hrs a day. I am
very thankful to the developer of this tool. It is available free of cost at
www.mousetool.com

Have a look at it. Try it and let me know, if it has helped you also.

Regards,

Maruti


------------------------------

Date:    Wed, 11 Apr 2001 12:02:10 -0400
From:    Tom 
Subject: My View on Pointing Devices

I've noticed that lately there has been a discussion on pointing devices.  I
have spent a lot of money on different pointing devices.  The best I've
found so far [it is still not a cure] is the pen tablet made by Wacom.  It
allows you to control the pointer with the pen.  I found that I can write
about twice as long as I can mouse.

If you have lots of money, Wacom has a tablet that is also a display.  I
have never tried one but it looks interesting [I do not know how ergonomic
it would be].

Tom
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date:    Tue, 16 Jan 2001 07:35:22 -0800
Subject: touchpads


I have the Cirque PowerCat and LOVE it, especially because I have it programmed to double click with just the lightest tap.  Will never mouse again.  I always take it with me when I am required to travel and can just plug it in wherever I am without even downloading anything.
Laura
------------------------------

Date:    Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:58:57 -0700
From:    Clair 
Subject: Re: Foot operated mouse

We have several options for clicking by foot. We can wire a foot switch into
almost any mouse or trackball. In fact, we can wire in as many as 4, for
right click, double click, drag, providing your pointing device can be
programmed for all those functions.

We also sell the Kinesis programmable foot switch, which has three switches.

We've had no luck getting the Bilbo unit.
Clair
800-0732-0522
------------------------------

Date:    Wed, 31 Jan 2001 08:35:35 -0500
From:    Bob Morency 
Subject: 

Click switches can be added to most any pointing device, mouse or
trackball for $30 or so in materials. We've converter both. I saved
instructions from a previous Sorehand post. Unfortunately I didn't save
the author info. Sorry....

To add a foot switch to your mouse you will take your mouse apart,
solder two wires to the terminals of the  desired mouse switch and cut a
notch in the housing (to prevent the wires to  from interfering  with
reassembly of the mouse). To the other end of these wires you will
solder a connector into which you can plug an off the shelf foot switch
from Radio Shack.   When done the mouse button can be "clicked" by using
the foot switch or by using the original mouse button (i.e. adding the
foot switch does not  change the normal functioning of the mouse).



For those who know a little about electronics: You  are going to
connect a second switch (i.e., the foot switch) in parallel with the
existing mouse button switch. Having done so, either switch can be used
to close the button circuit.

NOTE: The foot switch will wear out after several months, depending on
your level of use.  When this happens, simply unplug the dead switch and
plug in a new one.

ASSUMED SKILLS: These instructions assume that you know how to use an
ohm meter and that you know how to use a soldering iron. If you don't
have these skills, don't panic; you probably know a dozen people who do.
Try to find someone who works with electronics, fixes their own car, or
does their own electrical wiring in their house to help you.

PARTS LIST:
 (1)     Remote Foot Switch
         (Radio Shack Cat. No. 44-610)
         $3.99 each

 (1)     3/32 " enclosed, closed circuit phone jack
         (Radio Shack Cat. No. 274-247)
         $1.99 for package of two

  4 ft.  small gage (i.e. small diameter), two conductor wire
         ( or two 4 ft. lengths of single conductor wire)

TOOLS:
 small Philips head screwdriver
 ohm meter
 wire strippers
 soldering iron (one with a fairly small tip) solder
 file or small drill (see step 10)


STEPS:

1. Turn off your computer.

2. DISCONNECT THE MOUSE FROM THE COMPUTER.

3. Remove the ball and its retaining disk from the underside of the
mouse.

4. Remove all the screws from the underside of the mouse. Carefully
separate the two halves of the mouse housing.

5. Look at the  mouse circuit board and find the switch for the mouse
button you want to add the foot switch to. In my mouse it is a black
block shaped piece of plastic with an orange button on top. Basically,
if you find something that clicks when you push it, that's a switch.

6. Remove the screws that mount the circuit board to the mouse
housing(there may not be any screws. If so, look for molded in snap
fingers,i.e. little flexible arms of plastic which lock the board in
place. If there are snap fingers, carefully bend them back (one at a
time) until you have worked the board free).

7. Look at the underside of the circuit board.  Find the  solder pads
located directly below the switch you are adding the foot switch to.

8. Set the ohm meter  to measure resistance. Hold the meter probes
against the two solder pads that you think are associated with the
switch and simultaneously press the switch button. If you have the
correct solder pads, the resistance should drop to zero while the button
is depressed and should become extremely large when you release the
button. If you aren't getting these results, test different combinations
of solder pads until you do.

9. Solder one wire to each of the switch pads. Make sure that the wires
are directed towards the front of the mouse (i.e.  where the  existing
mouse wire  enters the mouse) and that they lay as flat against the
bottom of the  electronics board as possible (you don't want the wires
to prevent the board  from fitting back into the mouse housing).  Make
sure that you don't inadvertently create a short circuit between solder
pads;  clip off any excess wire protruding from the joints and check for
solder bridges (i.e. excess solder which runs from one pad to another).

10. You need to cut a notch or drill a hole in the front edge of the
mouse housing for the wires to pass through (otherwise the mouse will
not go back together properly). Put this near the existing mouse wire
but make sure that the way you do this doesn't interfere with the proper
functioning of the mouse switches or the proper reassembly of the mouse.
(A file is a good tool for making a notch).

11.  Solder a wire to each of the outer terminals of the phone jack
(Radio Shack part no. 274-247). Ignore the middle terminal; you don't
need it. (NOTE: if you drilled a hole in the previous step, make sure
that you thread the wires through this hole BEFORE you solder to the
phone jack).

12.  Plug in the foot switch and use the procedure described in step 8
above to test both it and the mouse button. When either switch is
depressed, there should be zero resistance between the solder pads. When
neither switch is depressed, there should be very large resistance
between the pads. If this is not the case, check for accidental short
circuits and double check that you have soldered to the correct pads.

13.  Reassemble the mouse. Spirally wrap the to wires around the length
of the mouse cord. This will keep the wires from getting in your way as
you use the mouse.

14.  Plug the mouse back into your computer.

15.  Start your computer and test the mouse.

SPECIAL NOTES FOR MICROSOFT MOUSE OWNERS:

(note: some of these instructions may apply to other mice if they are
similar in design to the Microsoft Mouse).

Step 6 requires you to remove the circuit board from the mouse. For the
Microsoft mouse you will have to remove the encoder wheels before this
can the done. To remove the encoder wheels use your thumb nail to
carefully bend the support closest to the wheel away from the wheel
while pulling up on the wheel shaft. The encoder wheel/shaft  will pop
out.  After you have removed both encoder wheel/shaft pieces, remove the
circuit board by carefully deflecting the two snap fingers located
between the screw hole posts while pulling up on the board.

To reassemble the mouse in Step 13 snap the circuit board back in, then
snap the encoder wheels back into place ( press the wheel end of shaft
into place first, then snap the other end of the shaft into place).


USING THE FOOT SWITCH

I have found the following arrangement to be most comfortable for me. I
rest the middle of the arch of my foot on the 1.5 inch tall support (a
length of 3/4 x1.5 wood) which lets me keep my foot in a comfortable,
level position. To actuate the  primary ( i.e. most frequently used)
switch I  briefly tip my heel down. To actuate the secondary switch by
briefly tip the ball of my foot down. The piece of wood supports the
weight of your leg between mouse clicks. Without a support, you have to
use your muscles to hold up your foot and / or leg so that the weight of
your leg does not actuate the switch. This is very tiring. With the
support muscle action  is  only required  when you actuate one of the
foot switches.


____________
|          |
|          |
|          |   secondary foot switch, actuated by ball of foot
|          |
|__________|

____________
|__________|  support,1.5 inches tall (middle of arch of foot rests
here)

____________
|          |
|          |
|          |   primary foot switch, actuated by heel
|          |
|__________|



DISCLAIMER:

I have performed modifications on  two computer mice with no resulting
damage to either the mice or computers.  I have used a foot switch with
these computers for 1 and 1/2 years without developing any related foot
problems. However, in these times it is necessary to append the
following paragraph to what I have said above.


I have checked these instructions over and believe them to be accurate
and detailed enough for others to successfully  add a foot switch to
their mice if the instructions are properly followed. However, I in no
way guarantee these instructions and furthermore take no responsibility
for any damage or loss to person, property or organization resulting
from or related to the use of these instructions. Neither do I take
responsibility for any problems any individual develops as a result of
using a foot switch.



That said, good luck. 
------------------------------

Date:    Wed, 31 Jan 2001 08:50:31 EST
From:    Diane 
Subject: Re: "No Hands Foot Mouse"

Yes Craig, one does exist and I have it.  My Dr. thought it would be a good
idea to take some of the motion off of the arm.  So, I have the foot mouse
and a track ball which I have to alternate between because the footmouse is
alittle slow and when I have clients on the phone, I need to be able to mouse
between applications to keep up with their requests.  Anyway, there are 2
foot pedals, one is for clicking and the other is for the cursor.  If I am
just researching, I can use this very effectively.  It does require a lot of
getting used to and your legs are constantly in motion. ( Looks like you are
sorta doing a chair dance!!)  I have noticed some fatigue in my legs but if I
alternate between both the track ball and the footmouse I can prolong my
usage on the computer.  I have noticed that if I am just sitting at the
computer  reading info, with my feet on the pedals the cursor drifts a lot
and I have to wiggle around to find it.

I would not recommend getting rid of your mouse until you have mastered the
footmouse, you may need to do the 50/50 thing the way I do.

Per the previous posts, I believe it costs around $250.00 and my employer got
it from a CO in Calif.  It is called the "No Hands Foot Mouse"

I hope this helps

Diane
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